---
title: "Tortoise Care in the UK"
description: "UK tortoise care — Hermann's and Horsfield's housing, safe hibernation at 4–8°C, outdoor enclosures, weed-based diet and when to see an exotic vet."
url: "https://pethealth.org.uk/health/tortoise-care-uk"
canonical: "https://pethealth.org.uk/health/tortoise-care-uk"
date_published: "2026-07-18"
date_modified: "2026-07-18"
source: "PETHEALTH+"
---

# Tortoise Care in the UK

UK tortoises such as Hermann's need a **secure, sunny outdoor enclosure** in summer, a heated indoor setup with **UVB** when housed inside, a weed-based diet, and careful **hibernation at 4–8°C** — or overwintering if underweight. Register with a tortoise-experienced vet before hibernation season.

## Common UK species

According to the British Chelonia Group (BCG), the Mediterranean species most often kept in Britain are:

| Species | Notes for UK keepers |
|---------|---------------------|
| Hermann's (*Testudo hermanni*) | The most popular UK pet tortoise; CITES-listed — the seller must provide the correct certificate |
| Spur-thighed (*Testudo graeca*) | Similar care to Hermann's; also CITES-listed with paperwork required |
| Marginated (*Testudo marginata*) | The largest of the three Mediterranean species; CITES-listed |
| Horsfield's / Russian (*Testudo horsfieldi*) | A keen burrower; trade monitored under CITES |

Tortoises can live for many decades — buying one is a lifetime commitment, so check paperwork and plan for the long term.

## Outdoor enclosures

UK summers let tortoises live outdoors from late spring into early autumn. The BCG recommends:

- **Space** — at least 10 square metres per tortoise
- **Walls** — solid barriers at least 45–50 cm high and buried 10–15 cm, as tortoises climb and dig
- **Shelter** — a waterproof house in a sunny position, raised so the floor stays dry, lined with newspaper or dried leaves
- **Cover ponds** to prevent drowning, and skip pesticides, herbicides and slug pellets anywhere the tortoise grazes
- A well-ventilated greenhouse with lawn access is ideal in spring and autumn — but replace a lower pane with a shaded exit, as greenhouses can overheat, and remember glass filters out UV

Never tether a tortoise by the leg and never drill or oil the shell.

## Indoor housing and temperatures

For indoor housing — essential for hatchlings and for overwintering — the RSPCA advises a tortoise table or indoor run of at least 180 × 120 cm for one tortoise:

| Requirement | Target |
|-------------|--------|
| Daytime temperature | 20–25°C |
| Night temperature | Around 15°C |
| Basking spot | 35°C under a guarded lamp |
| UVB | Full-spectrum tube within about 30 cm of the tortoise |
| Day length | Roughly 12 hours in winter, 13 in spring/autumn, 14 in summer |

Substrate should be a soil and play-sand mix deep enough to dig in — around 5 cm minimum. Avoid gravel, wood shavings and cat litter. Provide rocks for scrambling and a deep area of shredded paper or leaves for burying.

## Diet and water

Tortoises need a diet high in fibre and minerals but low in fat and protein:

- **Feed mostly weeds** — dandelions, chickweed, clover, plantains, sow thistle and vetches, plus leaves like bramble and rose
- **Young tortoises daily; adults every other day**, washing all food to remove fertiliser or pesticide residue
- **Avoid** peas, beans and dog or cat food (excess protein), large amounts of cabbage, broccoli and spinach (oxalic acid), and lettuce (mostly water, poor nutrition)
- **Supplements** — dust food with a vitamin and mineral powder two or three times weekly; offer extra calcium daily via grated cuttlebone, especially for egg-laying females
- **Water** — a shallow dish sunk into the ground; supervise 10–30 minute lukewarm baths (around 24°C) so the tortoise can drink

## Hibernation

Hibernation is the biggest UK-specific challenge. According to the BCG:

- **Prepare from late summer** — the gut takes 4–6 weeks to empty, so feeding tails off from early September. Book a health check first
- **Temperature** — keep hibernation quarters frost-free at **4–8°C**, checked with a max-min thermometer. Below freezing, tortoises can lose their eyesight or their lives; too warm and they burn through vital fat and glycogen stores
- **Fridge method** — a larder fridge (no ice compartment) pre-monitored for a month holds an ideal **5°C**; open the door daily for air exchange and weigh weekly
- **Weight loss** — around 1% of pre-hibernation weight per month is normal. Drastic loss or urination means wake the tortoise and get a vet check
- **Hatchlings** — can hibernate from their first winter if at least three months old and feeding well, but for no longer than eight weeks
- **Waking** — bring out slowly, then give a warm bath of at least half an hour so the tortoise drinks and empties its bladder

Any tortoise not feeding or seeming ill after waking should see a veterinary surgeon without delay.

## Overwintering instead

Underweight or ailing tortoises must not be hibernated. The BCG advises overwintering on an indoor tortoise table or heated vivarium with:

- **26°C by day and 18–22°C at night** — never below 15°C
- **Full-spectrum light for 13–14 hours** daily to prevent hibernation
- Fresh food and water throughout

## Health warning signs

See a UK-registered vet with tortoise experience if you notice:

- **Runny nose or watery eyes** — 'runny nose syndrome' can progress to pneumonia (see [Reptile respiratory infection UK](/health/reptile-respiratory-infection-uk))
- **Cheesy material or inflammation in the mouth** — stomatitis (mouth rot), often seen after hibernation
- **Soft shell** — points to calcium deficiency and poor lighting (see [Reptile metabolic bone disease UK](/health/reptile-metabolic-bone-disease-uk))
- Diarrhoea, mucus or worms in the faeces
- Circling, disorientation or refusal to feed after hibernation — possible frost damage
- Not eating for a week outside pre-hibernation — the BCG advises seeking advice within that time

## FAQs

### Should I hibernate my tortoise?

Healthy, well-weight Mediterranean tortoises such as Hermann's benefit from hibernation, but any tortoise that is underweight or unwell should be overwintered indoors instead. Book a pre-hibernation health check with a vet, and never hibernate a tortoise you have owned for only a short time without that check.

### What temperature should a hibernating tortoise be kept at?

According to the British Chelonia Group, hibernation quarters should be frost-free at 4–8°C. The fridge method — a larder fridge with no ice compartment — holds an ideal 5°C, with the door opened daily for air exchange. Below freezing, tortoises can go blind or die.

### What can tortoises eat in the UK?

A weed-based diet high in fibre and low in protein: dandelions, chickweed, clover, plantains and sow thistle. Avoid peas and beans (too much protein), go easy on brassicas and spinach, and skip lettuce — it is mostly water. Dust food with a vitamin-mineral supplement two or three times weekly.

### Do I need a certificate to buy a Hermann's tortoise?

Yes. Hermann's, spur-thighed and marginated tortoises are CITES-protected, so the seller must hold the correct certificate for the animal — always ask to see the paperwork before buying. Horsfield's tortoises are also monitored under CITES.

### Can my tortoise live outside all year in the UK?

No. UK summers suit outdoor enclosures from late spring to early autumn, but British winters are too cold and wet. Tortoises need either proper hibernation quarters or a heated indoor setup with full-spectrum light over winter.

## Sources

- [British Chelonia Group — Mediterranean tortoise care](https://britishcheloniagroup.org.uk/caresheets/caremed)
- [British Chelonia Group — Hatchling care](http://www.britishcheloniagroup.org.uk/caresheets/hatchlings)
- [RSPCA — Exotic pets](https://www.rspca.org.uk/adviceandwelfare/pets/other)

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Last modified: 2026-07-18