Leopard Gecko Care in the UK

According to the RSPCA, leopard geckos are terrestrial, crepuscular lizards from dry scrubland — active at dawn and dusk. All leopard geckos in the UK are captive bred, they grow to around 25 cm and can live up to 20 years.

• Minimum size — 60 cm long × 40 cm high × 30 cm deep for one adult, but as large as possible
• Hides — several, spread across both ends so the gecko can choose temperature without losing security
• Humid hide — a waterproof-bottomed hide with damp moss, sprayed every few days (essential for shedding)
• Position — away from radiators, direct sunlight and draughts
• Company — keep alone; they do not need social company and can be aggressive

Create a thermogradient with the heat source at one end. The RSPCA advises a 60–100 watt ceramic or basking lamp, guarded against burns, on a dimming thermostat:

• Place natural slate or rock in the basking zone — geckos feel warmth through their bellies
• Check both ends daily with digital thermometers; an infrared thermometer also works
• Heat mats are a night-time option: on one side of a wooden vivarium (or under half a glass one) with an on/off thermostat

Leopard geckos are often said to need no UVB — the RSPCA disagrees. Fit a 2–5% UVB tube covering one-half to one-third of the vivarium length at the hot end, with a reflector:

• Target a UVI gradient of 0.7 in the basking zone to zero in shade
• Follow the manufacturer's distance guidance — UVB fades with distance and is blocked by mesh and glass
• Replace the tube on schedule; output declines before the light visibly fails
• Ask your reptile vet about red-eyed morphs — bright light can damage their eyes
• Turn all lights off at night; a plug-in timer makes 12 hours on/off simple

Leopard geckos need a relatively dry vivarium — around 30–40% humidity measured at the cool end with a hygrometer. Too damp and you invite skin and airway problems; add ventilation if readings climb.

The exception is the humid hide, which creates a local damp area your gecko uses to soften skin before shedding. Poor sheds leave dry skin wrapped around toes and eyes, which can cut off blood supply and cost toes — never pull stuck skin off. More detail in Reptile shedding problems UK.

According to the RSPCA, leopard geckos are insectivores needing variety:

• Staples — crickets (such as brown house crickets), calciworms and locusts, no bigger than the gecko's head
• Treats — waxworms only sparingly (high in fat); a washed dandelion or nasturtium flower once a month
• Schedule — juveniles daily, adults every other day
• Gut-loading — feed insects a formulated gut-loading diet 24–48 hours before offering them
• Supplements — lightly dust livefood with vitamin and calcium powder before feeding; keep a small bowl of plain calcium powder available
• Water — shallow dish of fresh water at the cool end, replaced daily

Remove uneaten insects — they can bite your gecko. Weigh regularly to catch weight loss early.

For a healthy adult in a well set-up vivarium, the RSPCA suggests a 50/50 organic soil and play sand mix, clay substrates, slate pieces or reptile carpet. Never use calcisand or beech chips — they cause impaction, a potentially fatal gut blockage. House young geckos on non-loose substrates until they are thriving. See Reptile impaction UK for the warning signs.

Scoop the gecko up gently with both hands so all four feet are supported — never grab, and never put pressure on the tail. Leopard geckos can drop their tails; it regrows but rebuilding the fat stores is costly for them. Keep sessions to around 10–15 minutes so their core temperature does not drop.

Contact a UK-registered exotic vet if you notice:

• Muscle twitching, swollen legs or soft jaw — metabolic bone disease (see Reptile metabolic bone disease UK)
• Weight loss or a thinning tail (a healthy gecko has a thick tail)
• Abnormal droppings or constipation — droppings should be fairly dry with a dark part and white urates
• Retained shed on toes or eyes
• A swollen belly in a female — she may be carrying infertile eggs and needs a nest box of moist soil to avoid becoming egg-bound
• Open-mouth breathing or wheezing