Reptile Care in the UK: Setup, UVB and Health

A bearded dragon, leopard gecko and corn snake cannot share one generic care sheet. Read the RSPCA's reptile-home guidance and the guide for your exact species. Choose an enclosure that lets the animal move normally, hide at different temperatures and behave naturally. Make lids secure and provide ventilation without a draught.

Run the complete setup for at least a week before the animal arrives, as the RSPCA advises. Check that heating and lighting timers work and that temperatures remain suitable through day and night. Put a thermometer at the basking area and another at the cool end; use a hygrometer to check humidity. Do not rely on a thermostat dial alone to tell you the temperature the animal actually experiences.

Reptiles regulate body temperature by moving between warmer and cooler areas. A guarded heat lamp or other species-appropriate heater should be controlled by a thermostat. Provide accessible cooler space and hides. Avoid heat rocks, which can cause burns. The required temperatures depend on the species and where in the enclosure you measure them.

• Bearded dragons need a bright basking area, strong UVB and a cooler retreat. The RSPCA bearded dragon guide gives a basking temperature of about 38–42°C. See the full bearded dragon guide.
• Leopard geckos need a heat gradient, hiding places and a humid hide to support shedding. Despite their dusk-and-dawn activity, the RSPCA recommends low-level UVB. See leopard gecko care.
• Corn snakes need a secure enclosure, a heat gradient, cover and the correct humidity for shedding. The RSPCA also recommends low-output UVB for corn snakes, with shaded areas available. See corn snake care.

Match the lamp, distance, reflector and photoperiod to the species and enclosure. UVB output falls before a tube stops glowing, so replace it according to the manufacturer's instructions. Glass can block useful UVB. Check the species guide before choosing a bulb or supplement; too much or too little light can cause harm.

Diet differs just as much as lighting. Bearded dragons eat suitable insects and plant foods in proportions that change with age. Leopard geckos eat appropriately sized, gut-loaded insects with supplements according to veterinary guidance. Corn snakes eat appropriately sized, previously killed prey. Do not transfer feeding advice from one species to another. Provide clean water in a suitable dish and remove soiled food, bedding and waste promptly.

Wash your hands after handling a reptile, its food or its enclosure. Keep reptile equipment away from food-preparation areas. Record weight, eating, droppings and shedding so a gradual change is easier to spot.

Arrange a prompt assessment with a reptile-experienced vet for weight loss, repeated refusal of food, abnormal droppings, retained shed, mouth changes, injury or unusual inactivity. Breathing difficulty, severe weakness, seizures or an obviously painful or swollen abdomen need urgent advice. Temperature and lighting faults can contribute to illness, but correcting a setup does not replace a veterinary examination.

If you think your reptile is brumating, check its weight and husbandry and speak to a reptile vet before assuming appetite loss is normal. Our emergency-vet guide explains how to find help outside normal hours.