Reptile Health
Tortoise Care in the UK
Published Last updated 6 min read
Quick answer
UK tortoises such as Hermann's need a secure, sunny outdoor enclosure in summer, a heated indoor setup with UVB when housed inside, a weed-based diet, and careful hibernation at 4–8°C — or overwintering if underweight. Register with a tortoise-experienced vet before hibernation season.
Key takeaways
- UK tortoises such as Hermann's need a **secure, sunny outdoor enclosure** in summer, a heated indoor setup with **UVB** when housed inside, a weed-based diet, and careful **hibernation at 4–8°C** — or overwintering if underweight.
- Register with a tortoise-experienced vet before hibernation season.
Common UK species
According to the British Chelonia Group (BCG), the Mediterranean species most often kept in Britain are:
| Species | Notes for UK keepers |
|---|---|
| Hermann's (Testudo hermanni) | The most popular UK pet tortoise; CITES-listed — the seller must provide the correct certificate |
| Spur-thighed (Testudo graeca) | Similar care to Hermann's; also CITES-listed with paperwork required |
| Marginated (Testudo marginata) | The largest of the three Mediterranean species; CITES-listed |
| Horsfield's / Russian (Testudo horsfieldi) | A keen burrower; trade monitored under CITES |
Tortoises can live for many decades — buying one is a lifetime commitment, so check paperwork and plan for the long term.
Outdoor enclosures
UK summers let tortoises live outdoors from late spring into early autumn. The BCG recommends:
- Space — at least 10 square metres per tortoise
- Walls — solid barriers at least 45–50 cm high and buried 10–15 cm, as tortoises climb and dig
- Shelter — a waterproof house in a sunny position, raised so the floor stays dry, lined with newspaper or dried leaves
- Cover ponds to prevent drowning, and skip pesticides, herbicides and slug pellets anywhere the tortoise grazes
- A well-ventilated greenhouse with lawn access is ideal in spring and autumn — but replace a lower pane with a shaded exit, as greenhouses can overheat, and remember glass filters out UV
Never tether a tortoise by the leg and never drill or oil the shell.
Indoor housing and temperatures
For indoor housing — essential for hatchlings and for overwintering — the RSPCA advises a tortoise table or indoor run of at least 180 × 120 cm for one tortoise:
| Requirement | Target |
|---|---|
| Daytime temperature | 20–25°C |
| Night temperature | Around 15°C |
| Basking spot | 35°C under a guarded lamp |
| UVB | Full-spectrum tube within about 30 cm of the tortoise |
| Day length | Roughly 12 hours in winter, 13 in spring/autumn, 14 in summer |
Substrate should be a soil and play-sand mix deep enough to dig in — around 5 cm minimum. Avoid gravel, wood shavings and cat litter. Provide rocks for scrambling and a deep area of shredded paper or leaves for burying.
Diet and water
Tortoises need a diet high in fibre and minerals but low in fat and protein:
- Feed mostly weeds — dandelions, chickweed, clover, plantains, sow thistle and vetches, plus leaves like bramble and rose
- Young tortoises daily; adults every other day, washing all food to remove fertiliser or pesticide residue
- Avoid peas, beans and dog or cat food (excess protein), large amounts of cabbage, broccoli and spinach (oxalic acid), and lettuce (mostly water, poor nutrition)
- Supplements — dust food with a vitamin and mineral powder two or three times weekly; offer extra calcium daily via grated cuttlebone, especially for egg-laying females
- Water — a shallow dish sunk into the ground; supervise 10–30 minute lukewarm baths (around 24°C) so the tortoise can drink
Hibernation
Hibernation is the biggest UK-specific challenge. According to the BCG:
- Prepare from late summer — the gut takes 4–6 weeks to empty, so feeding tails off from early September. Book a health check first
- Temperature — keep hibernation quarters frost-free at 4–8°C, checked with a max-min thermometer. Below freezing, tortoises can lose their eyesight or their lives; too warm and they burn through vital fat and glycogen stores
- Fridge method — a larder fridge (no ice compartment) pre-monitored for a month holds an ideal 5°C; open the door daily for air exchange and weigh weekly
- Weight loss — around 1% of pre-hibernation weight per month is normal. Drastic loss or urination means wake the tortoise and get a vet check
- Hatchlings — can hibernate from their first winter if at least three months old and feeding well, but for no longer than eight weeks
- Waking — bring out slowly, then give a warm bath of at least half an hour so the tortoise drinks and empties its bladder
Any tortoise not feeding or seeming ill after waking should see a veterinary surgeon without delay.
Overwintering instead
Underweight or ailing tortoises must not be hibernated. The BCG advises overwintering on an indoor tortoise table or heated vivarium with:
- 26°C by day and 18–22°C at night — never below 15°C
- Full-spectrum light for 13–14 hours daily to prevent hibernation
- Fresh food and water throughout
Health warning signs
See a UK-registered vet with tortoise experience if you notice:
- Runny nose or watery eyes — 'runny nose syndrome' can progress to pneumonia (see Reptile respiratory infection UK)
- Cheesy material or inflammation in the mouth — stomatitis (mouth rot), often seen after hibernation
- Soft shell — points to calcium deficiency and poor lighting (see Reptile metabolic bone disease UK)
- Diarrhoea, mucus or worms in the faeces
- Circling, disorientation or refusal to feed after hibernation — possible frost damage
- Not eating for a week outside pre-hibernation — the BCG advises seeking advice within that time
Sources & further reading
Facts in this guide are rewritten in plain English from publicly available UK advice. We name the organisation where a specific point comes from their guidance. Links below go to the original pages — use them to read the source material directly.
PETHEALTH+ is independent. These organisations do not sponsor, approve, or partner with this website. Guidance checked against sources listed below (last updated 2026-07-18).
- Reptile Respiratory Infection: UK Guide
- Metabolic Bone Disease in Reptiles (UK)
- Reptile Heating in Winter UK
- Bearded Dragon Care in the UK
- Bearded Dragon Not Eating? UK Vet Guide
- Corn Snake Care in the UK
- Leopard Gecko Care in the UK
- Reptile Care in the UK
Also see symptoms, symptom checker, and poison guide.
Frequently Asked Questions
- Should I hibernate my tortoise?
- Healthy, well-weight Mediterranean tortoises such as Hermann's benefit from hibernation, but any tortoise that is underweight or unwell should be overwintered indoors instead. Book a pre-hibernation health check with a vet, and never hibernate a tortoise you have owned for only a short time without that check.
- What temperature should a hibernating tortoise be kept at?
- According to the British Chelonia Group, hibernation quarters should be frost-free at 4–8°C. The fridge method — a larder fridge with no ice compartment — holds an ideal 5°C, with the door opened daily for air exchange. Below freezing, tortoises can go blind or die.
- What can tortoises eat in the UK?
- A weed-based diet high in fibre and low in protein: dandelions, chickweed, clover, plantains and sow thistle. Avoid peas and beans (too much protein), go easy on brassicas and spinach, and skip lettuce — it is mostly water. Dust food with a vitamin-mineral supplement two or three times weekly.
- Do I need a certificate to buy a Hermann's tortoise?
- Yes. Hermann's, spur-thighed and marginated tortoises are CITES-protected, so the seller must hold the correct certificate for the animal — always ask to see the paperwork before buying. Horsfield's tortoises are also monitored under CITES.
- Can my tortoise live outside all year in the UK?
- No. UK summers suit outdoor enclosures from late spring to early autumn, but British winters are too cold and wet. Tortoises need either proper hibernation quarters or a heated indoor setup with full-spectrum light over winter.